Platinum, Gold, Silver and Palladium are chemical elements on the periodic table. These elements are substances that cannot be broken down into simpler substances because they are already in their primary (elemental) form. These elements can be mixed together with other elements to create compounds or alloys. Alloys are created to enhance the characteristics of the element, especially as it relates to beauty, strength and corrosion resistance.

Gold

Gold is deep yellow in color, highly malleable and ductile. When used in jewelry, pure gold (24Karat) is so soft that it is typically alloyed to increase its strength or to change it’s color to a range of yellow, white and rose colors. Whether mixed with Nickel, Copper, or Palladium, the ratio of Gold to it’s alloyed counterpart determines its Karat.
Karat, Carat or Carrot? Karat applies to gold as a measure of fineness. Carat is a unit of weight for gemstones. A carrot is an orange root vegetable, delicious when eaten raw or cooked. When buying gifts for your honey, stick with karats and carats variety!
Let’s take a trip back to school and explore math, specifically fractions. Think of karat as a fraction of gold. 99.95+% pure gold is 24 karat or 24 out of 24 parts of gold. 18 karat gold is 18 out of 24 parts or 75% pure gold. 14 karat gold is 14 out of 24 parts or 58.5% pure gold. Jewelry is often stamped with a quality mark which indicates its purity.

Comparing the White Metals

When choosing your preferred metal, consider its color on your skin tone and any concerns about allergies. Nickel allergies are fairly common and can quickly simplify the number of choices for your jewelry. Maintenance requirements, as well as considerations about how a specific metal will age with wear, need to be considered. Each metal alloys patina is evidence of its age and the impact of your wear.

White Gold

White Gold is available in a variety of alloys that make it appear whiter in color. However, because it is gold, it has yellow undertones. White Gold is typically plated with a thin layer of Rhodium known as Rhodium Plating to make it appear whiter. This plating wears away and requires professional maintenance to reapply the plating, restoring the super white appearance. White gold remains shiny as its worn. White Gold is durable for use in jewelry. When alloyed, the properties of the Gold change. White Gold is significantly less malleable than its yellow counterpart. During the alloy process the metal becomes more rigid and more brittle.

Platinum

Platinum is a white metal with cool undertones. Platinum is dense and malleable, as it relates to jewelry. Platinum is most commonly used in a 95% pure form, typically alloyed with other metals such as Rhodium, Cobalt, Iridium, Ruthenium or Nickel. Platinum has a substantial heft. When comparing two identical rings, one created from White Gold, one created from Platinum, the Platinum ring weighs approximately 60% more, thus increasing its durability and cost. Platinum is hypoallergenic and develops a beautiful patina with wear. It’s patina is evidence of its density. As it wears, its luster becomes matte. As tiny scratches are formed, the displaced metal remains intact. In comparison, white gold is less dense, will lose material throughout decades of wear. Over its lifetime, a platinum ring will withstand the tests of time compared to White Gold.

Palladium

Palladium is a white metal with grey undertones. Part of the Platinum family, Palladium is less dense than Platinum and therefore more affordable. As it relates to jewelry, Palladium is most commonly used in an almost pure form, typically around 95%, the remaining 5% is Ruthenium. Palladium is hypoallergenic and a good choice for those with allergies to Nickel.

Silver

Silver in it’s pure form is too soft for use in jewelry. Alloyed with Copper to increase its strength and durability, Sterling Silver is typically 92.5% pure (fine) Silver and 7.5% Copper (nickel or zinc) creating a white metal with pink undertones. Sterling Silver is prone to oxidation, tarnishing and creating a dark patina in the recesses of a design. The areas of the design that come in contact with the skin remain bright and polished creating contrast between the recesses and relief. Significantly lower in price than Gold, Platinum or Palladium, Sterling Silver is a good choice for fashion jewelry. However, because it is softer and less durable, it is not an ideal choice for designs with multiple gemstone settings.